How to install RAM Upgrades on Desktop PC

Installing a new RAM (RIMM/DIMM) is not rocket-science but one of the easiest and most useful upgrades for your computer. In many circumstances, increasing RAM is the cheapest solution for higher speeds and smooth performance. There are two options for this task: adding RAM to free slots or replacing existing memory with higher capacity RAM.

The following procedure applies for upgrading memory on a desktop PC.

1. Shut down the machine and unplug it and wait for like 10 minutes the current to completely drain from the motherboard. If your motherboard has a LED glowing when the motherboards receives power, wait until it dims.

2. Open up the your system.

3. Connect a static guard strap to your wrist and to the frame of the computer chassis.

4. Move cables and wires out of the way of empty sockets and memory modules. If you have to remove a cable, pay attention to its current location and placement so you are able to put it back later.

5. If you chose to remove the RIMM or DIMM, lift the module up to the socked by pressing down the ejector tab at both sides of the module. If you are inserting modules working in dual-channel mode, pay attention they usually have different color, distinguishing from other sockets.

6. Insert the new memory module into the socket. Pay attention the ejector tabs are flipped down for the socket you want, otherwise they may break or damage the module.

7. Push the RAM module into the socket until the ejector tabs lock in place and secure the connection. Having notches along the connector edges positioned offset from the center, the modules can be inserted in one way only; don’t push them too hard to avoid damages to modules or the socket.

8. Put back the cables you disconnected at step 4 and close the chassis.

9. Plug and start the computer with the new RAM installed and check for the new RAM was installed. If the computer cannot see it, reboot it in BIOS mode and make additional settings there.

Processor Installation Guide

Table of contents

• Introduction
• Installation Procedure
• Conclusion

Introduction

Disclaimer: 
This guide is provided for informational purposes only and is not designed to replace your own product knowledge. 

This guide should be used in combination with professional opinion and guidance from certified IT hardware professionals as well as information from official product manuals. 

We disclaim any and all liability resulting from the use of any informational media appearing on this site. Usage of this guide is at your own risk. 

Notice:

This guide is a general introduction to CPU installation. The installation procedure may vary with different socket types and/or heatsink types. Please refer to your processor, motherboard and heatsink (CPU cooler) manual for detailed instructions. 


Installation Procedure

Make sure that your motherboard supports the CPU before installation.

We assume that you are installing the CPU onto the motherboard before installing the motherboard into the system case, and it is highly recommended that installations be approached this way.

1. Locate the CPU socket 

Locate the CPU socket on the motherboard. 

2. Open the CPU socket 

Gently lift the CPU socket lever to the upright position to open the socket.

For the LGA775 socket, you need to pull the CPU socket plate up after lifting the lever. 

3. Align the processor 

Locate the diagonal corner (golden triangle) on the upwards facing side of the processor. Align the processor so that this corner matches on the processor and the socket.

This step may vary with different socket types, please refer to your processor, motherboard and heatsink (CPU cooler )manuals for detailed instructions. 

4. Insert the processor 

Carefully place the CPU into the socket in a straight and downwards motion. 

5. Lock the processor 

Push the lever back into its original position to lock the processor.

You need to close the CPU socket plate before engaging the lever on the LGA775 platform. 

6. Apply thermal paste 

Apply an even layer of thermal paste on the surface of the installed processor. It is highly recommended that you use a plastic card to spread the thermal paste evenly, or use your finger with a new and clean plastic bag over it instead. This prevents contamination of the thermal paste. 

This procedure may not be necessary when using a heatsink with thermal paste already applied to its base. 

7. Align the heatsink 

Place the heatsink atop the processor; align the heatsink so that its clamps/clips are in line with the mounting holes on the motherboard.

Please refer to the heatsink/cooler manual for precise instructions. 

8. Mount the heatsink 

Clamp/Mount the heatsink in place using the proper technique (see heatsink/cooler manual for detailed instructions). 

Be careful at this step since the motherboard and/or the CPU will be under a lot of pressure, and your screwdriver (which may not be necessary) can cause serious damage to the motherboard in the case of a slip. 

9. Attach the heatsink fan header 

Resetting boxed processor fan-heatsink fasteners/pushpins

Finally, please attach the heatsink power connector to the CPU fan header located on the motherboard and make sure it is properly plugged in. 


Conclusion

The processor should be physically installed onto the motherboard properly after these procedures. The remaining part is the BIOS configuration (after your system is completely set up). Please refer to the manual that comes with the computer or motherboard to learn how to configure the BIOS for the processor model installed.

See in Pic:

• Resetting boxed processor fan-heatsink fasteners/pushpins
• How to install a LGA775 processor in the LGA775 socket
• How to install a LGA115x processor into the socket

Installing the Motherboard in Your Homebuilt Computer

Installing the motherboard in your homebuilt computer usually is pretty easy (though sometimes knuckle-busting). Basically, you just line up the board with the mounting holes and rear-panel openings, and then screw it in. 


Read the Manual!

Read the manual!Before actually installing the motherboard, be sure to thoroughly read the motherboard manual (that's that paper thing that came in the box) to familiarize yourself with the board's layout and connections, to make absolutely sure that it is compatible with the processor and RAM that you will be using, to make sure that the jumper settings, if any, are correct, and to check for any other warnings or instructions.

In most cases, you won't actually have to do anything to the motherboard. Most modern motherboards have a "jumper-free" option that can be selected (usually by setting a jumper, amusingly enough) that will allow you to control the motherboard settings from the keyboard during CMOS setup. When setting a jumper is required to enable the jumper-free settings, that jumper is usually pre-set that way from the factory.

Determine Which Mounting Holes You will be Using

About the only difficult part of installing a motherboard is matching up the mounting holes in the mobo with the ones on the case.

In theory, the mounting hole locations are standardized within a given form factor; but in practice, it's a rare thing to find a case and motherboard whose mounting holes exactly correspond. More often, you will have to look at the mounting holes in the motherboard to determine which mounting holes on the case you will be using.

It's good practice to use all of the motherboard's mounting holes, but you probably won't use all of the case's mounting holes. Chances are that the case will have "extra" holes to accomodate different boards.



Installing the Standoffs

Three kinds of standoffs.Once you have determined which mounting holes you will be using, you will need to insert standoffs in the corresponding holes in the computer case. Chances are that some of them will already be installed, and you will have to install the rest.

There are several types of standoffs, with the ones on the right being the most common. The purpose of standoffs is to separate the back of the motherboard from the metal case. You install the standoffs in the mounting holes in the case that correspond to the holes in your motherboard.

If you don't install the standoffs, then you will most likely damage your motherboard when you try to install it.

The standoffs are screwed or inserted into the chassis.The standoffs are screwed or inserted into the chassis, and the mobo in turn is attached to the standoffs through the mounting holes in the motherboard. This creates a small space that prevents the back of the motherboard from shorting out against the metal case.

Again, don't be surprised if your motherboard has "extra" holes for which there are no corresponding holes in the case. This is normal. Very few cases and motherboards will match exactly. As long as you use all the mounting holes that do match, you'll be fine. (And there's no charge for the extra holes.)

Standoffs must NEVER be inserted into any of the "extra" holes, however. Standoffs installed in holes on the case that don't have corresponding holes in the motherboard can cause the motherboard to short out.

Finally, don't over-tighten the standoffs. Hand-tight plus a smidgen is enough. Most cases are made of thin metal that can strip if you over-tighten the standoffs.



Install the Motherboard

Line up the motherboard with the rear panel openings and the mounting screws. Once you have the correct standoffs inserted, lay the motherboard into the case, line up the mounting holes and the rear-panel connectors, and screw it down.

Usually, the easiest way to install a motherboard is to lay the motherboard over the standoffs slightly forward of the rear panel connectors, then slide it back into the rear panel connectors until the mounting holes line up. Make sure that you're not snagging any wires, then screw the board down.

Don't over tighten-the screws! You will crack the motherboard if you do, and then it will be useless! The screws should be snug, not excessively tight. Use a standard screwdriver, not an electric one. This is delicate stuff we're doing here.



Attach the Power Connectors

Don't forget to attach the power connector! Finally, connect the ATX power connector from the power supply to the motherboard. Do this now. If you forget about it and later fire up your computer while the ATX connector is not connected to anything, then you will fry your computer's power supply.

On Pentium 4 and most other high-powered computers, you will also have to connect the P4 connector to the motherboard. You may also have to connect power to some high-end video cards and certain other components later on in the assembly process.

If you're not sure where the connections are, read your motherboard's manual.

Computer Case Guide

Overview

Whether embarking on the challenge of building a desktop computer for the first time or you’ve done it a hundred times already, choosing a case for a new system in today’s market can be a challenge. This guide is here to help desktop builders sort through the many options among cases and the varying architecture that different types offer. Hopefully, builders can use this guide to find a great case that suits them at the time of building and perhaps even accommodates upgrades long into the future. Below you will find helpful information on key componentry such as power supply units (PSUs), external versus internal drive bays and their different sizes, expansion slots, cooling systems, peripheral connections, and more.


Today's Computer Case Options


ATX Desktop:

The standard; ATX desktop cases are designed to hold motherboards with the ATX form factor. These allow the easiest interchangeability of parts. These cases also usually accommodate motherboards that keep the basic rear layout but reduce the size of the board and the number of expansion slots. If you want a desktop case, the ATX desktop case will likely be your computer case of choice.  


ATX Bench Case:

ATX bench cases are open-air computer cases, meaning the internal components are visibly exposed.  A strength of this design is the ease of accessibility when switching out devices; optimum heat ventilation is another. One obvious concern for this design, however, is protection—this type of case must be located in a secure area.




ATX Mini Tower:

As the name suggests, this is the type of computer case needed when using an ATX micro motherboard. A micro motherboard will fit perfectly into these cases, and, since the cases are small, they won't take up much desk space. Remember, however, that a smaller computer these days does not necessarily suggest smaller storage options.  Many companies are creating huge storage options in smaller devices.




ATX Mid Tower:

ATX mid tower cases are designed with the ATX motherboard form factor in mind. However, unlike a full size tower, a mid-size tower will work in a smaller space. If large or extra componentry is not needed, or if the location for this computer is limited, this case will likely be preferable.




ATX Full Tower:

These cases, like the kind mentioned just above, have been designed for motherboards with the ATX form factor. With a full tower, there is a generous amount of space inside for large components and/or multiple graphics cards, for example.




ATX Super Tower:

An ATX super tower is the largest computer case available on the market at this time. While they are available to any consumer, they are generally meant for computer enthusiasts. These cases are usually quite large and most are able to support two CPUs. These computer cases also can have as many as nine expansion card slots, with room for an ATX-XL motherboard.


Home Theater Computer Case:
An “HTPC” can be a great addition to your custom home theater. Consider this type of case if the objective is to build a computer specifically for great audio and video reproduction. Optical drive support as well as general external appearance of the case will likely be important factors in choosing a case in this category.


Server Chassis:
When building a server, be sure to start with a case designed for this type of device as they differ from personal computers. Server cases also come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and optional componentry—two of the more common are rack-mount and pedestal chassis.


The Features and Specifications to Consider

Included below is some discussion on the various features of common computer cases. As with any kind of DIY project, be sure to take into account the accessibility and expandability for both present and future system needs.

Form Factor:
This term simply means size and shape. Be sure that the case can accommodate the internal components; conversely, when considering adding components, case-size is a key consideration. A full tower may accommodate just about any motherboard or PSU on the market, but the standard and mini towers will not. Keep this in mind throughout the compilation and build process.



Power Supply Unit:

Often referred to as “PSUs,” this is where, of course, the electricity comes from. Different cases offer options for the power supply.

PSU Provided – Some cases are sold with a PSU provided and mounted inside. A case with the PSU provided makes the build process a little simpler, but may ultimately reduce options. Consider how many and which kind of internal components will be used, as well as their relative power needs, and choose a PSU accordingly. Also consider the quality of the PSU; convenience in the short-term may mean replacement in the (too-)near future.

Mount Location – Usually cases offer either bottom- or rear-mounted PSU positions (actually, both mounts are in the “rear”; “rear-mount” means, more specifically, the PSU is mounted in the top-rear of the case). On a bottom-mount, the weight of the PSU can offer improved stability for the computer as a whole, keeping its center of gravity lower. Rear-mounts, on the other hand, may offer other necessary options for a particular build and create more and/or better cooling options. If your high-end graphics cards need intense heat dissipation, consider a rear-mount PSU. With normal desktop computers, though, these two options are more or less equivalent.

Modular vs. Non-Modular (vs. Semi-Modular) – “Modular” means the cables unplug from the PSU itself.  This is handy when a computer needs to power only the minimum number of components; specific cables can be selected for included devices and any other cables are left out of the build, until, perhaps, another component is added that needs one. “Non-Modular” PSUs come with all cables integrated (as pictured above), and may leave the build with a few extra, unused cables needing to be tucked away somewhere inside the case. “Semi-Modular” means just a few cables are integrated into the PSU for components such as, for example, the motherboard, but let the builder decide which and how many more cables are needed. See the Cable Management section for more on this.

External 5.25” Drive Bays:

The number of external 5.25" bays that the case holds will have an impact on what can be installed in the computer. These are the bays used for DVD and Blu-ray optical drives. For a computer that will be used as a Home Theater PC, consider a case with at least two of these bays, minimum.


Internal and External 3.5” Drive Bays: 
Nowadays one might find memory card readers, for example, in the external expansion spaces. The internal bays, on the other hand, are where you'll be putting your permanent hard disk and solid state drives. Specify a case that has enough 3.5" bays of both the internal and external variety for the computer to perform the functions you need. Also consider a case that has more than what is needed now to accommodate the addition of components in the future.


Room for the Graphics Cards
If you have a very large graphics card, make sure that the computer case has enough room for it. The graphics-intensive needs of some of today's computer users has resulted in some very large graphics cards. Make sure the case has plenty of room for space between and around the graphics cards, space for the number of cards to be used, and enough space to ensure adequate dissipation of the heat generated by more powerful components. 

Cooling Options

Some cases have fans built-in, others do not but have places to mount one or multiple fans. Depending on how hard the computer will be pushed, cooling options need to be taken into account. Intake fans are placed near hard drives—more drives naturally generate more heat. Rear fans push the hot air out, away from the components. Adding fans can be helpful, but also keep in mind that you may hear them.  Larger fans are quieter and more efficient at a slower rate, and, therefore, more desirable. Some setups will give the user control over various fans and their speeds. More power usually means more heat, and more fans usually means more noise; take these into consideration when building a high-performance machine.



In addition to air-cooled options, you may also find water- or liquid-cooling add-on options available as well. These high-end cooling systems should probably only be considered by more experienced builders looking to create a high-performance machine. See the section on Liquid CPU Coolers under Techie Stuff below for more info on this. Standard desktops with moderate components, however, require only the most basic ventilation options.

Number of Front Panel Ports    
The number of front panel ports on the case is as important as the number of computer ports on the motherboard (the rear panel). Almost all cases come standard with at least two USB ports in the front. From there you will find variations, including external SATA or eSATA ports, various slots for directly inserting memory cards, a FireWire port, and, especially on newer cases, USB 3.0 ports. It is common nowadays to have multiple mobile devices as well as external hard drives and USB 3.0 devices all plugged in at once. In addition to these data-transfer ports, cases also usually offer headphone and microphone jacks.


Take into consideration what external devices will be connected to your computer and how many of each. Front panel connectivity is one of the key usability options of a computer, and choosing one with the right configuration will increase satisfaction with your case in the long run.

Cable Management
As mentioned briefly in the PSU section above, internal cable management is important when building a computer. Some cases have features that improve cable management. Not only does proper cable management make a computer look better (especially if it has a side window), but it also allows for better airflow and cooling. Make sure your new case is large enough for space behind the motherboard to route cables. Some cases come with hidden areas for the extra cables or cable length. If a case does not specify this feature, you'll need to do the cable management by hand.

Tool-Free Cases:
For most DIYers, using new and varying tools is a fun part of the experience. However, many cases on the market today can be constructed without the use of even a screwdriver (save for securing the motherboard). The internal components can be accessed as well as “snapped” into place with a plethora of connectors and clips included with the chassis. Specialized slots, caddies, and the like, are designed to accommodate the most common hard drives and other devices. For a first-time builder this may mean an exciting opportunity. Also, for those who may need to swap components often for testing or comparison, perhaps, may find this type of case expedient for their needs. The old-fashioned, some-tools-required cases may offer more security with their stable and durable track record.


Which Computer Case is Best for Me?
While it may be difficult to decipher which features require the most attention and which specs will serve particular needs, there are number of computer cases on the market from which to make a great choice. Below, you’ll see recommendations which we hope will assist you with identifying the type of case to best serve your needs. If you happen to identify with more than one of these groups, don’t worry—it’s possible to find a computer case that covers a multiplicity of features and specifications.

Students

• Form Factor
• Number of USB Ports
• Power Supply Unit

College students often find limitations on space and budget. Consider a micro ATX case and Motherboard to match if space is critical.

Also, find a computer case that has ample USB ports. You'll want a minimum of four rear USB ports considering a mouse, printer, and keyboard cable will each take one port. Front ports for mobile device charging will also be important. In addition, pay attention to the power supply unit. Shop among the manufacturers which build both computer cases and PSUs; these will usually yield the best combinations for the best price.

Home Entertainment Users

• Appearance
• Form Factor
• 5.25" Drive Bays

HTPC cases often come in black and silver, harmonizing aesthetically into a whole home entertainment setup. As a home theater user, also consider the number of 5.25" bays that the case can accommodate, considering that most of your media devices will use these bays.

Gamers

• Cooling Options
• Ventilation / Side Air Duct
• Power Supply Unit
• Room for Graphics Card(s)

Gamers are notoriously hard on their computers. The gaming experience takes its toll on a system and causes it to heat up quite significantly. Because of this, make sure there are enough integrated fans or places to add fans as well as a side air duct for proper heat dissipation.

In addition to cooling, the power supply unit will also be of concern to gamers. Standard PSUs often do not provide adequate power for higher-performing components. Consider a case that does not provide a power supply. This will give you the option of installing the power supply that is powerful enough to keep up with your gaming needs.

Some of today's graphics cards are very large. Make sure that a case can accommodate the size of the graphics card(s) on hand or that will likely be integrated in the future. Remember, too, that adequate space is required to prevent the cards from resting against each other, other components, or against part of the chassis.

Home Users

• Cost
• Power Supply
• USB Slots

Home users don't have to be as picky when it comes to which computer case chosen. Match the right size case and motherboard, and the rest is pretty much up to you. Also, if the system does not contain high-intensity or high-performance componentry, you likely won't need a custom power supply unit. Consider buying a case with an integrated power supply from a reputable manufacturer. If you can find one on sale, even better!

As a home user, the number of USB ports on the case will be important—you’ll likely want to power everything from your printer to your cell phone. Remember, the more USB slots you have, the more peripherals you can hook up to your computer at the same time. Most cases come with at least two front panel USB  ports (along with headphone and mic-jacks), but you may want to take into account additional ports for video cameras, mobile phones, tablets, and the like. It’s better to have too many than not enough.

Business Users

• Form Factor
• Power Supply
• Expansion Slots

As a business user, take the form factor (size and shape) into consideration. If space in the offices or cubicles is limited, micro ATX cases (and motherboards) may be in order. Just make sure the cases and motherboards match.

Power supply units are another concern for business users. Custom PSUs may be the best option here. In case a PSU does go out, the whole case (or whole computer!) will not require replacement.

In addition, pay close attention to the number of expansion slots. As technology changes, so will the number of slots needed. Rather than having to start from scratch, look for cases and motherboards that allow a computer to expand with the technology.

How-To Guide

Computer cases usually come with at least some instructions to help you understand how to set up and use them. There are some how-to’s, however, that are not covered in these manuals. The following information will help you understand the basics of how to use and take care of your computer case after you have made your investment. See also related NeweggTV videos for helpful hints and instructions.

How to Install a Power Supply Unit
Be sure the PSU is not plugged in when installing it. Open the case and identify whether the PSU slot is bottom- or rear-mounted. Once you find the slot, align the four screws of the PSU with the holes provided. Then simply screw the PSU securely into the case panel. Plug it in and check for power. Once you are sure that the PSU has been installed properly, re-connect power cables and close the case.

How to Install Fans
Installing fans in a computer case is similar to installing a PSU. Check the Owner/User Manual for details. First, unplug the computer, then remove the cover of the case. Find the spaces where the fans are to be installed. Align the mounting holes on the fans with the holes in the computer case. Screw the fans securely into the appropriate spots and check to make sure they are working properly. Also check the direction of the fans—fans at the front panel, near the various disk and optical drives, most often pull air into the case; fans at the rear push air out. Coordinate the direction of airflow when installing or replacing fans. Once your fans have been installed, you can replace the cover of the case, plug in, and test the operation.

How to Upgrade Internal Components 
When upgrading an internal component, be certain the new component is compatible. First, power-down and unplug the computer. After opening the case, find the corresponding expansion slot(s) for the new part. If a component is being replaced, check the area for any wear or debris. Place the new component in the appropriate slot. Do not use extreme force. Delicately check for secure installation/connection. Once the component is installed snugly, replace the cover and check for proper performance.

How to Clean Your Computer Case
Keeping a desktop computer clean is essential to long-lasting and optimal performance. Fans and heatsink will function normally, keeping the system from overheating and ruining vital and expensive components. Data and power connectors will continue to operate well, and replacement and upgrade efforts will require minimal effort.

How often should a thorough cleaning be done? This depends on the computer's normal environment. A good rule of thumb may be about every six months, but that can change when considering several factors. The frequency with which a desktop computer requires cleaning can increase accordingly:

• If the computer is housed in an environment that is arid, dusty, or sandy
• Nearness to a construction zone, freeway, or desert environment
• A home or workplace where smoking is allowed
• A home with pets
• Where food and drink are often near the computer
• If the computer case is open or partially open (as one constructed with metal mesh panels)

Generally, if the home or workplace environment requires frequent dusting, then it is safe to assume the computer(s) in that place will also require frequent cleaning. When cleaning a computer, remember to follow guidelines such as these:

• Shutdown and unplug the computer before opening the case
• Use an air compressor on a lower setting, or use a can of compressed air designated for cleaning computers and electrical components
• Do not use a vacuum cleaner on the internal components of the computer.
• Do not blow off stickers that may be required for warranty verification
• Keep compressed air cans upright so as to avoid accumulation of moisture and blowing into a computer

Step-by-Step Instructions

Necessary supplies: can of compressed air specifically designed for cleaning computers and/or electrical components; 70 – 99% isopropyl alcohol and cotton balls or swabs; lint-free cloth

Unplug and move the computer to a spacious, elevated, clutter-free work area; place computer on a material suitable for soaking up any moisture from the compressed air or alcohol swabs.  

Cleaning the fans: Be sure to hold the fan blades to prevent spinning and use compressed air to blow off visible dust. If visible dust remains on or around the blades, use cotton swabs with a small amount of isopropyl alcohol, or perhaps even a soft toothbrush.  If removal of a fan is necessary, make sure to determine which direction the fan turns and reinstall it the same way, as some fans blow air into the computer and some blow it out.

Cleaning the processor and/or heatsink: Use compressed air to blow off/out any visible dust. Use alcohol and cotton swabs to remove remaining dust and for general cleaning. Note: if alcohol is used to wipe down the thermal paste between components, reapply the paste as directed. Apply the paste as thinly and evenly as possible, and make sure there are no gaps in the paste.

Cleaning the case itself: Use a can of compressed air or an air compressor on a low or gentle setting. Blow outward at points of ventilation: mesh screens, air vents, metal mesh, etc. Make sure no ventilation passages are obstructed. Wipe down any clingy dust with cloth and cotton swabs dipped in alcohol.

Side Note: It is recommended that while a computer case is open, the cables are reorganized to maximize air flow and cooling. Use zip ties and/or cable management to re-route and optimize the set up.

After a complete cleaning, make sure all the parts are dry. Use the cloth to carefully wipe dry any damp areas or components. When all is ready, reassemble and return computer to its home.

Here, too, is a video from the NeweggTV crew to demonstrate.


Techie Stuff

Form Factor Compatibility
While a micro ATX motherboard can usually fit into a full size tower, a full size motherboard won’t fit a micro ATX case! Remember to match size and shape between internals and a computer case.

Multi-Channel Fan Controllers   
Cooling is essential to the longevity of your computer. If a computer gets too hot, it runs the risk of damaging the motherboard. Higher-end computer cases offer multi-channel fan controllers. These allow you to control the speed of each fan to regulate both the noise and temperature levels of a PC.

Water Cooling   
One of the benefits of building your own computer is that you can specify the type of fan you want for the computer case. This also means that you can explore the power of liquid CPU coolers. The typical air-cooled computer is packed with a number of fans—pre-installed, graphics card-specific, and CPU fans—to move cool air in and hot air out.  A liquid cooling system, on the other hand, uses a series of coolant-filled tubes, a radiator, and water blocks to keep your PC even cooler. Liquid-cooled computers tend to stay cooler operate more quietly than fan-cooled units. As mentioned above, these are usually only necessary for extremely high-performing systems.

The complete guide to a Windows 8 clean installation

Backup your data
Of course, before you get started, you should back up your data. You can use Windows 7's Backup and Restore to create a backup or you can simply copy your data files over to an external hard disk. You might even want to do both operations. After all, you really can't have too many backups, can you?

Getting started
After booting from the DVD that I created from my download, the first thing I encountered was the new light blue Windows logo on a black background, as shown in Figure A. This image remained on the screen for a few moments while Setup was initializing. I was kind of hoping that the flag would be animated, but the only animation was the dots spinning in a circle.


Figure A

The new light blue Windows flag is introduced.

After a few minutes, you'll see the Windows Setup screen shown in Figure B and you will specify your language settings before clicking Next. When you do, Setup will perform some more initialization tasks in the background.

Figure B

The first step in the installation is to specify your language settings.

As soon as the initial steps are taken care of, you'll see the Windows Setup screen shown in Figure C and will click the Install Now button.

Figure C

To get started, just click the Install now button.

Collecting Information

Once you click the Install now button, you'll see the beginning of the information collection phase of the installation procedure. As you can see in Figure D, the first step here is to input the Windows 8 product key.

Figure D

You'll enter your product key to start the information collection phase of the installation procedure.

The next step is to acknowledge that you accept the license terms, as shown in Figure E. If you take the time to read through them, you will see that Microsoft has indeed radically overhauled EULA as Ed Bott over at ZDNet wrote about in a recent column.

Even if you don't take the time to read the license terms during the installation, once you have installed Windows 8, you can find the Microsoft Software License Agreement in the Windows Help and Support system - just search with the term License. Not only is the license shorter in length, but it is also much clearer and easier to read.

Figure E

The new EULA is much easier to read that previous versions.

When you are prompted to choose which type of installation you want to perform, as shown in Figure F, you'll choose Custom: Install Windows only (advanced) type in order to perform a clean install of Windows 8.

Figure F

In order to perform a clean install of Windows 8, you'll select the Custom option.

When you are prompted to choose where you want to install Windows, as shown in Figure G, you'll see a list of any partitions that are currently on your hard disk. As you can see in my example system there are actually four separate partitions. You may have a different combination depending on your system.

As I mentioned, performing a clean install means blowing away all existing partitions. The first partition in this list is labeled System Reserved and it was created automatically during the Windows 7 installation. A new System Reserved partition will be created by Windows 8, so you can remove existing one. The partition labeled Recovery contains the OEM recovery for Windows 7. I created the recovery DVDs soon after I got the new system. It won't do me any good going forward with Windows 8 anyway, so I will remove that partition too. The partition labeled WIN7 contains the Windows 7 installation that I am replacing, so it is definitely going. The partition labeled DATA contains all of my data that I copied to an external hard disk, so it is safe to blow that one away too.

Figure G

On you example system there are four partitions that I will be blowing away.

To begin blowing away partitions, you start by clicking Drive options (advanced). When you do so, you'll see a list of commands for managing partitions, as shown in Figure H.

Figure H

When you click Drive options (advanced), you'll see a list of commands for managing partitions.

Now, you'll select each of the partitions, one by one, and select the Delete command. When you do, you'll see a confirmation prompt like the one shown in Figure I. Just click OK to delete the partition.

Figure I

As you delete each partition, you'll be prompted to confirm the operation.

Once you delete each of the existing partitions, you'll see that all of the space will be combined together in one chunk labeled Unallocated Space, as shown in Figure J. While you could create a new partition and format it, you don't have to. Windows 8 will automatically take care of that in the next step. So just go ahead and click Next.

Figure J

All of the space will be combined together in one chunk labeled Unallocated Space.

Installing Windows

When you click Next, Setup creates the partition, formats it, and then instantly moves into the Installing Windows phase which begins with copying and getting files ready for the installation, as shown in Figure K. This process will take a while to progress though, so you can sit back and relax a bit.

Figure K

The Installing Windows stage begins with copying files from the DVD to the hard disk.

When this phase of the process is complete, Windows will alert you that it is going to restart in order to continue, as shown in Figure L. If you are really impatient and really quick, you can click the Restart now button.

Figure L

Windows will restart after the first part of the process is complete.

Upon restarting you'll see the black screen with the blue Windows logo and see that Setup is getting devices ready, as shown in Figure M. As soon as that part of the process is complete, Windows will alert you that it is going to restart again, as shown in Figure N.

Figure M

Windows Setup will get all installed devices ready to work with Windows 8.

Figure N

Windows will restart again.

Configuring Windows
When the system restarts, you'll be prompted to choose a color scheme for Windows 8 and a PC name, as shown in Figure O. I chose a light blue color scheme for now. I can change it later.

Figure O

You can choose a color schema and name your computer.

When the Settings screen appears, as shown in Figure P, you can choose to customize these settings or you can allow Windows to use the express settings. If you are unsure, you can click the Learn more link and get more details. I chose to use the express settings. I can change any or all of these setting later if I want.

Figure P

You can customize the settings or just go the express route.

On the next screen, you'll choose how you want to sign on to Windows 8, as shown in Figure Q. While you can choose to sign in with a local account, I would recommend that you use an existing Microsoft (email) account, such as a Hotmail.com or a Live.com account. If you don't have a Microsoft account, you can sign up for one or you can use any email address that you want and Windows 8 will create an account for you.

Figure Q

It will be to your advantage to use an existing Microsoft account or to create one.

The advantage of using an existing Microsoft account or creating one is that you will be able to instantly use the Windows Store, will be able to easily sync settings between multiple Windows 8 computers, and be able to easily take advantage of other Windows 8 features. I already have a Microsoft account, so I entered it here.

After filling the details of your account on the next couple of screens, you'll eventually see a screen that changes color as it alerts you the Setup is getting your PC ready. The green version of this screen is show in Figure R.

Figure R

While this screen changes color often, it will remain for a few minutes while Setup works in the background.

As you may know, Windows 8 comes with a host of native apps for the Start screen interface that replace and add to the group of applications that used to come with previous versions of Windows. The screen shown in Figure S indicates that Setup is installing those apps.

Figure S

As the last step in the installation, Windows 8 installs its set of native apps.

Once the apps are installed, you'll see the Start screen, as shown in Figure T, and can begin using Windows 8.

Figure T

The Start screen appears when the installation procedure is complete.